I prefer a solid wood core; wood is more expensive than foam, but provides for a better feel in my opinion. There are also many varieties of wood that can be mixed to create any feel (maple, poplar, aspen, ash, balsa, etc.). The core is designed with several factors in mind: primarily weight and flexibility (noodle vs barn door feel). There is a balance here which ski manufactures work hard to achieve. My first year I used a core made from poplar and aspen; these cores made for a very light ski, but it was also very flexible: the noodle. My second year I used aspen and maple, but also integrated steel and aluminum rods, 3 ft and 5 ft respectively, into the core. The core was also thicker; this resulted in a ski that was heavy and rigid: the barn door. These ski both have their place - backcountry/powder vs hard crud. Last years cores are shown below:
A 1/8" groove was routed into the side of the core members to place the 3' stainless steel and 5' aluminum rods in the core.
This year I attempted to balance the two by using my knowledge of the past two years. The core is made from aspen and maple, but is thinner than year two. I also tried to use some engineering logic to come to a conclusion:
The first step in creating the core is to rough cut the stock material. This is done using a table saw to rip the boards down their length. Their width is determined based on the core plans I originally laid out on my templates.
Using this method, the ski profile does not have to be cut, but is clamped into place. The core members should be sanded to remove any unevenness and ensure that the glue will bond well.
The next step is to clamp and glue the core into place; I use a standard water resistant wood glue. Placing a piece of plastic down on your work surface prior to gluing will help to control excess glue.
The core template can then be used to cut the rough tip and tail shape. This is not the final shape as the core and flashing are trimmed after the ski is pressed. The template is larger than the final ski by 5mm on every side.
At this point the ski must be planed to size. The wood used is 3/4" thick which is equivalent to 19 mm. The ski must be planed to 12 mm; this is the maximum thickness of the ski. Using the planer is one of my favorite operations because it always works fast and well.
Once planing is complete, the ski thickness must be profiled to size. A linear profile was chosen for these skis which takes them from 12mm at the boot to 2 mm at the tip and tail. This is accomplished using the profiling jig that was created earlier. A router is moved across the ski on a slide which is moved up and down the rail.
A slider is used to guide the router along the profiling jig rails.
The following video is played at 12X speed and demonstrates the profiling process. It takes approximately 20-25 minutes per ski.
The cores are then sanded to remove any unevenness. Once finished, the cores are ready to be pressed.
Hello John,
ReplyDeleteI am a "skibuilder" from germany. I really like your blog. I was wondering whether you are willing to share the excel calculation file you have created with me.I mean the one shown in pic #5 of this post.
That would be real cool
Hello Friend, I'd be happy to share my excel spreadsheet with you. If you provide your email I can send you the file. If you have another method to share the file I'm open to that too. These particular skis ended up stiffer than I wanted, but I'm sure you can improve on the design.
DeleteWhen I said these skis ended up too stiff I was thinking of the Goliath V2 which incorporated the metal rods. The GXR ended up with a well balanced stiffness.
DeleteHi Jon,
ReplyDeletethat is really great. Here my email: whatever.0815@gmail.com
Thanks a lot.
Markus
Hi Jon,
ReplyDeleteI am an undergraduate engineering research student who is analyzing material science of downhill skis. I was curious if you left the cores like this or if you added base and top layers. If you were to add just one base or top layer what would you choose to add the desired properties?
-Sarah
Sarah,
DeleteThe cores were sandwiched between layers of fiberglass and ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) for bottom and top sheets (in the case of this particular ski I believe I used a carbon fiber - Kevlar weave instead of fiberglass). If you look at following blog posts you can see these layers as well. Fiberglass adds a lot of torsional rigidity to the ski while still maintaining the flexibility. You need the UHMWPE bottom sheet as well to absorb the wax and provide the low friction, durable riding surface. If I had to choose just one layer, I'd have to go with UHMWPE to provide the gliding surface. However, it's really the composite of all the layers that makes the ski perform as desired. All the different layers also make the ski fun to design since you have a lot of knobs to turn to get the desired result while balancing weight, stiffness, and torsional rigidity.
Jon
Hey Jon,
ReplyDeleteI'm an engineering student looking to get in to making skis and snowboards and wanted a place to start based on some technical data. Are you willing to share the spreadsheet with me so I can get an idea of how you're analyzing the ski?
Thanks!
Sam
Sam, somehow I missed this comment, sorry. Are you still looking to get my spreadsheet?
DeleteJon
Hi JON I’m interested in your spreadsheet as well. Could you send me a copy to skidesmond@gmail.com? Much appreciated. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteDone; enjoy!
DeleteJon, I would be interested in your spreadsheet. Nice work. My email address is:
ReplyDelete3dcad@comcast.net Thanks
Engineering student, interested in building skis! would you be able to send my you excel spreadsheet? Thanks! lukasbillingsley@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteHi JON, I would be interested in your spreadsheet. It looks really cool. Here my email: rivetti.n@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteThank you very much.
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ReplyDelete